Restaurant Tim Raue
Excellent service — sleek, attentive, trendy — provides to the sense of supreme nicely-being. Behind a stately exterior, the world’s most emotive chef, Massimo Bottura, cooks flights of fantasy and memory. The first sign that this isn’t your ordinary upscale Italian restaurant comes from the abstract modern work on the wall, however the artwork continues on the plate. The mortadella sandwich of each Italian child’s memory is became an impossibly mild mousse, a Magnum ice cream bar turns into a sophisticated, foie-gras stuffed bite.
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Even the Amazonian ants he serves, redolent of lemongrass and positioned gently atop a dice of pineapple, appear elegant. Heston Blumenthal took his fascination with English culinary historical past and turned it into one thing unexpectedly interesting for the rest of us. In this hushed but theatrical eating room, Swiss-born chef Daniel Humm takes the entire farm-to-table movement, imbues it with a little bit of French savoir-faire, and, like an alchemist, comes out with the quintessential New York restaurant. Indeed, the sense of place here comes not just from the regionally grown and produced ingredients, but from Humm’s understanding nod to New York’s culinary tradition. Pristine carrots, for example, get turned into a lightly whimsical take on steak tartare; sturgeon (delivered to the desk under a smoke-crammed cloche) is served with the restaurant’s tackle an every thing bagel.
And like his spectacular lacquered eel, which Bottura serves with saba and polenta to symbolize the apples and corn … Read More